We left Haifa today and headed towards Akko, a site Avi promised would be “sexy” and it very much lived up to the promise! The amazing remains of the Crusader city were something to behold and the restoration was amazing. While some might be argue against the use of modern building material to shore up the remains that had been dug out of the sand, enough of the original Romanesque architecture was left to give one an incredible feel for what was once there. While one often looks at Israel from a purely religious aspect for archaeology, it was fascinating to see and learn about the rich Crusader and Islamic post-biblical heritage of the land as well. Also, that Akko, such an important port city that was fought over for so long would eventually fall into disuse over time really drove home the idea of impermanence. Avi kept emphasizing how much the site had changed and developed over time and what a wonderful educational experience it had become. I think we all wholeheartedly agreed with him, as well as with his assessment that it was really a tragedy that the site was not more popular.
On our way out of the site we were treated to the work of Gabriel Medina, a 6th generation metalsmith and his workshop/store. Despite our tight schedule we spent time admiring his work and purchasing items hand crafted by him and his sons to take home.
Lunch was ideal – my favorite of pita and hummus! I’m sure there were other things served but that’s all I cared about! Colleen and I said we were so hot it was hard to be hungry but little did we know (ok so Avi warned us repeatedly) how very hot it could get. At Capernaum the hot, hot, hot and humid air greeted us like a blast furnace! However, the remains of the 4th C synagogue and early octagonal church were well worth the visit at “Jesus’ home town”. It was really the first site we had been to that had any crowds (wasn’t missing them!!). The evidence for the site being Capernaum was substantial, but with the requisite questions of was the church really built on the site where Jesus stayed while there, and what an expensive 4th century synagogue (built after Constantine had declared Christianity the official Roman religion) contemporary with the church was doing there to ponder. Avi gave us a solid biblical background to the site and to the ministry of Jesus. As beautiful as the site was, with the heat we were glad to get on the bus to our next stop, blessedly air conditioned. At our Kibbutz hotel they had on display the “Jesus boat”, a misnomer for a 2000 year old preserved boat. We saw a fascinating film on how the boat was found and the efforts put forth by marine archaeologists to preserve and display the boat.
Finally we checked into our rooms and many of us eagerly threw on our swim suits to hit the inviting Sea of Galilee. While we were unsuccessful in walking on water despite our attempts (and some nearly lost beach shoes in the mud) those who swam were grateful to be in the cool water after such a hot day.
A typical Israeli dinner of loads of appetizers then lots of delicious meat and wine followed at Decks restaurant.
We also saw our first cloud in Israel. Once I can download the picture I’ll share it! It was quite the event!!
Lynn Horton