As an educator who has the heavy responsibility of teaching genocide to middle schoolers, I’ve spent countless hours reading books and collecting resources and pictures about the history of the Holocaust. I’ve spent a significant amount of time looking at pictures of cattle cars or cargo cars used for transporting Jewish persons from various countries to concentration camps thinking, how could this have happened? How could people stand by and allow this to happen? I also thought, how can I explain this to my students? Seeing pictures in itself was extremely emotional and impactful; however, being at a train station where this actually occurred was devastating.
Our third and final day in Salonica started with a bus ride through an area of the city where 5 ghettos were established to hold Jewish community members before their transport to the camps. Business buildings and various new homes had been built on the land, but there was an emptiness that I felt in my bones while making our way through. During this time, Vivi, our guide and scholar fed us information that was enlightening and disturbing at the same time. I learned that 49,050 Jewish Greeks were deported to Auschwitz-Birkenau from Thessaloníki, and that 4% of that number survived. 75% were gassed within the first 45 days of their arrival. Hearing the numbers was particularly hard. The fact that most did not have an opportunity to even think of a way to survive or protect their family was overwhelming. Vivi explained that the journey just to the camp was extremely deadly since it was one of the longest trips by the transport train, taking 5 days. There was a high percentage of people who died even before arrival. An additional struggle particular to the Greek population within the camps was the temperature change. Being in the hot Greek weather the past few days had me thinking about what it would be like to be used to this weather, and then to be in the frigid cold without proper clothing. Most Greeks also didn’t speak any German. The more and more I sank into these facts and the more I contemplated the specific unique struggles of Greek Jews, the more crushing the sadness became.
When we got to the train station, many of us participated in a memorial service called Six Candles at the Site. Letters written by those experiencing the genocide first-hand were read along with Psalms (I read Psalm 22) and reflections. The most moving part of the ceremony for me, was when a few of our CWB group members sang. The mixture of music, real-life up-close cars, and the faces of my colleagues was heartbreaking. It was a very important moment in this trip. While reflecting, I answered my question, how do I teach this? The answer was by focusing on hope.
The hope: seeing how deeply this group of educators was moved by this moment. I know that this group will take this experience with us and use it as a catalyst for personal growth and as a catalyst for better instruction on genocide. The hope: seeing candles and flowers along the bottom of the cattle cars, placed by others before we came. The hope: seeing artwork lining the walls of the train station as we left, depicting the struggle the Greek Jewish citizens suffered as an agent of remembrance. The hope: the strength I’ve heard in the voices of those who had their stories shared in writing and read aloud, here, by people who care and who remember.
When we left, we visited a school with stumbling stones to commemorate the 150 boys that were taken from that school to the concentration camps and killed. More first-hand accounts were shared in a moving ceremony. Finally, we visited a Jewish grave site which was deliberately destroyed in an act by Nazis, but brought about by non-Greek community members. Marble from tombs were destroyed and repurposed. A university was built on the land as though it was just another patch of dirt—but we know and we remember. Together, we lit candles and shared reflective time. This was a moment I won’t forget.
After our thought and emotion-provoking morning, the day shifted gears to teach us about Greek Macedonia—specifically about Alexander the Great’s father, Philip the Second; Alexander the Great’s son, Alexander the Fourth; and life during the time for non-royals. We went underneath a mound of dirt, now overgrown with flowers, to explore the museum. I took about 15 pages of notes and learned so much from Vivi and Avi during this time. Between Philip having seven wives, Alexander the Great having his body stolen after his death because of a prophecy only to be lost forever, and his son Alexander the Fourth being poisoned by his own uncle to eliminate competition, I can say that if there were a drama-reality TV show based on Ancient Greek Macedonia, I do think it could Keep up with the Kardashians. Here are two fun facts I learned: 1) Macedonia was for trading goods (ex: chicken for a bag of herbs) but, if you did have coins you would use your mouth as a wallet because they had no pockets and also didn’t want people to know they had them to get robbed. 2) Alexander the Great is always depicted with his head tilted up and cocked to the left because he was hit in the head by a club in battle and couldn’t support his head properly to hold it straight.
Seeing that the museum was actually an archeological site was extremely exciting for me. I felt like Lara Croft when I walked down the steps to see Philip the Second’s tomb entrance. It had beautiful marble doors and a faded, long painting above it. We also saw the entrance to his grandson’s tomb, Alexander the Fourth. His did not have a painting because Vivi said he most likely had a decoration made of leather that disintegrated. It was incredible to behold! Even more incredible were the burial crowns! Wow! Over 300 gold leaves, acorns, and bees were woven together and kept in a golden chest. I was blown away by the craftsmanship and beauty!
When we left the museum, we traveled to a nearby site that had “The House of Helen.” It was another archaeological site, which again, was extremely exciting to witness. The thing that was the most impressive about this site was that it had giant floor mosaics depicting Ancient Greek stories that were made entirely from…river pebbles!! I could see the veins in the men’s arms and their facial expressions and they were made of pebbles!! It was incredible. It was mind-blowing. I want to make one in my bathroom, so if anyone has extra colored river pebbles…
We enjoyed a pleasant ride back to our hotel and I journaled on my experience. There is a competition running for the best joke to crack a smile on David’s face. I will be pondering that tonight. I can’t wait to see what else is in store tomorrow. This has been the most incredible experience and I am so thankful to be here with this amazing group of scholar-pioneers!
Alyssa Betz is a teacher at Elizabeth Forward Middle School.